Bogotá History 101: The Old City with a New Kid

Saturday morning was off to a good start when we went in Eli's room to get him for his morning bottle and discovered that he had pulled himself up to standing, in his crib!

                

We can't get over how fast our son is growing and changing, right in front of our eyes. He looks different to me, already: older, bigger, happier, more alert...We are loving every minute with him, but already I'm sensing how fast it will all go.

Jorge Rico, the tour guide FANA works with, picked us up at 11 am for an outing to La Candelaria, Bogotá's "Old City." La Candelaria is now a neighborhood within the city. However, three hundred years ago this colonial barrio was the original Santa Fe de Bogotá. A town founded by the Spanish expeditionary, Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, and representing the beginning of the Spanish era in this part of Colombia. Before the Spanish arrived, the area had been inhabited by an indigenous group named the Muisca. The Muisca capital was named Bacatá. Santa Fe de Bogotá (later only known as Bogotá) was a combination of the the names of the explorer Quesada's hometown in Spain (Santa Fe) and his apparent mispronunciation of the original Muisca capital he discovered in Colombia (Bacatá).
Jorge is a descendant of the Muisca tribe, so he is a wealth of knowlege when it comes to Bogotá's history. He had our attention right away with his intelligent conversation, detailed stories and easy banter. He told us that he never had the "opportunity" to go to college, but he has graduated from the "school of life." We agree, whole-heartedly. He certainly is the most well-read, insightful, witty and well spoken English as a second language speakers we have ever encountered!

Jorge Rico, our tour guide and new friend

On our drive to La Candelaria, Jorge talked to us about his passion for environmentalism and his "hobby" of restoring indigenous varieties of trees to various locations of Colombia. Although Eucalyptus trees are now prevalent in this part of the world, they are not indigenous. The Spanish brought the trees with them and planted them. Jorge says they add little value to the environment, providing no nutritional value for the animals and burning easily because of their dry, brittle nature. He is trying to populate the forests, once again, with the original palm trees and varieties of pine that originated here. 

We also learned that graffiti is appreciated as an art form here in Bogotá and that talented graffiti artists are being encouraged to share their craft throughout the city. The graffiti is vivid and bold- often portraying a political or social statement. 

We started our tour with lunch at a hidden gem, Fulanitos, a restaurant tucked back on a tiny cobblestone side street. We never would have found this place ourselves, but it was such a treasure. 

The restaurant lives in a 200 year old restored home, complete with original wood beam ceilings, floors, stairs and railways. The beautiful hand hewn wood, alone, would have made Fulanitos a worthwhile stop. I started taking pictures as soon as we walked in the door!

Imagine our happy surprise to find a spectacular view from our table on the covered terrace and food that was "delicioso" as well as beautifully presented!

My lunch which consisted of white fish, potato, and shrimp in a cream sauce ...Yum!

After lunch, we walked about the city with Jorgé pointing out historic buildings and points of interest. We stopped in a little archeological history museum and learned more about the indigenous tribes of Bacatá, and saw some of their preserved pottery and musical instruments! The museum also documented the Spanish occupation and its influence on the culture.

             

Traditional instruments 

A clay whistle...add water and blow in one end to create a bird-like sound

Clay rolls used to create designs on bodies, as well as textiles

The primitive art of the Muisca

                       

Discovered artifacts of the indigenous tribes

A Spanish treasure chest carried into Colombia and holding items of great value

The ornate furniture and instruments of the Spanish

After leaving the museum, we walked by church of Saint Carmen- the patron saint of drivers in Bogotá. Jorgé explained that Carmen watches over the drivers and keeps them safe. He said that if we look at the dashboards of the taxis in Bogotá, we will likely find a picture or medallion of Carmen. I laughed and replied, "Yes, your drivers here certainly need all the help they can get!" Jorgé agreed!

Next, we entered into the area where all of the government buildings stand. We passed the Presidential Palace, Casa de Nariño, where President Santos lives and works. It was hard to get a good look as the place is gated and protected by guards, but we snapped this pic of the grounds, through the gates.

Then we wandered into Plaza de Bolivar, La Candelaria's main square, which is framed by the Capitolio Nacional (the seat of Congress), Edificio Liévano (the Mayor's office), Palacio de Justicia (seat of the Supreme Court), Catedral Primada (Bogotá's supposed first and confirmed largest church and the home of Jiménez de Quesada's remains) and Capilla del Sagrario (a smaller church and the only remaining original colonial building in the square).

Palacio de Justicia

Capitolio Nacional

Edificio Liévano and Palacio de Justicia

Catedral Primada

The plaza also contains a bronze statue of its namesake, Simón Bolívar, and serves as a gathering place and social center for this part of Bogotá. We were fortunate enough to stumble into a small food fair consisting of a handful of food and beverage stands, a stage with a Cumbia band playing, and a decent crowd in attendance. 

No one in our family was the right size for this ride!

A talented band of musicians playing an experimental, modern style of Cumbia...

We stood for some time in the sun and open air, enjoying the music and the social environment. I decided to try some fresh sugar cane juice from one of the vendors who was operating a large hand-cranked wooden juicer which he fed sugar cane into, producing a room temperature, brown foamy liquid that was tasty, though not as sweet as one would suppose. Eli was giving me a coveting stare as I drank, so I offered him a few sips, as well. We both enjoyed the drink, although Jamie was not much of a fan! 

After refreshing ourselves, we stepped into the Catedral Primada and I knelt to say a prayer for the peace and well being of my grandparents who would be moving into an assisted living facility the next day.

As we walked back towards Jorge's van, we tried to take in the unique character of La Candelaria. Jorge pointed out theaters of note, private and public schools, and beautifully restored homes. What stood out to me were the cobblestone and brick streets...

and the brightly colored, well maintained homes and shoppes.

 

Along the way, Jorge
greeted several men and women, by name, who were peddling their wares. He explained to us that he is a great supporter of Bogotano artisans and the street vendors, in particular. He says that many people who live in the city do not appreciate the craftsmanship and lost arts of theses individuals, but he thinks it is much better to buy hand crafted, Colombian made goods than to purchase overpriced souvenirs made in China from the mall. We couldn't agree more!

We stopped to watch an older gentleman, a friend of Jorge's, carve wall hangings out of salvaged wood- the backs of old chairs, table tops, etc. His tools consisted only of his own two hands (one in a wrist brace from overuse) and a blunt, flat-edged chisel. We couldn't believe the detailed images he was able to procure from the wood with such primitive hardware.

Working on a new piece...

We chose a small piece representing the original Bacatá and the indigenous people to put away for Eli when he is older. A few of my friends who have adoption experience recommended collecting small Colombian gifts to save for each of Eli's birthdays. Jamie and I loved the idea, so we have started our search for "18 Gifts"- Colombian made items that are suitable gifts for various stages in Eli's first eighteen years. With this first gift, I also made the decision to try to get pictures of the Colombian artists or vendors that we buy from and record their names, whenever possible. These photos and background information will accompany each gift as it is presented to Elias.

Eli's first gift and it's maker

On the drive home, Jorge told us tales of the political strife in Bogotá's history and his hopes for the future. Eli slept peacefully in my arms while Jamie and I listened, attentively. It was such a culturally rich experience for us- this time with Jorge in the old city. This is definitely the way to see the city, with a knowledgeable native, proficient in English and passionate about his city and his people. Jorge makes his living giving tours of Bogotá and the surrounding area, charging a mere $12 an hour. But his time with us was truly priceless. We made plans to meet up again on Tuesday with a few possibilities in mind for destinations and said our goodbyes and thank yous for a truly special day. 

We were pretty worn out after our full day of sight-seeing, so we called it an early night and got plenty of sleep. It truly is a luxury to have this time here, with no demands on us other than caring for our son and each other.  Learning about our child's native country, spending time with the people and in the streets of his city of birth, and coming to understand the underpinnings of his cultural heritage is an experience we could never replicate in the US. 

Our little family is creating memories and connections here in Colombia that we will carry back home with us to live in our hearts, our minds and our identity as a family.

What Really Matters...

My Facebook post this morning and the beginning of our 4th of July in Colombia:

It is 5am in Bogotá and in the apartment above us they are drumming, stomping on the floor, singing, cheering...there is a full-on party that just got started up there! Welcome to "football" day in Colombia. While all my American friends are celebrating our Independence Day, we will be immersed in soccer mayhem: Colombia vs. Brazil for the World Cup! 
Unable to sleep through the ruckus, I practice yoga in the living room and watch the sun rise over the city. A black cat lazily strolls along the rooftops of the apartment complex across from ours and bird songs add another layer to the symphony of celebration songs drifting down from upstairs. This day lifts my heart.
At home, in the US, my family will gather for a picnic, games and fireworks. Laughter, love and pride will color the hours and courageous, lion-hearted men like my grandfather, my poppa, my Uncle Tom, my brother in law Rick, my father in law Dick, and the generations of defenders before these will be honored and revered for their heroism. When the food has been eaten and the memories made, the tired but happy adults and sun kissed, bright eyed, popsicle faced kids will carry lawn chairs and blankets to grassy spots where the sky is vast and open.
"And the rockets red glare, the bombs bursting in air, gave proof through the night that our flag was still there. Oh, say, does that Star-Spangled Banner yet wave?"
Oh, yes, my fellow Americans, it surely does! Our flag still waves, 238 years later, despite wars and strife, discord, and loss. Our flag still symbolizes all that we fight for, believe in and build our daily lives around: freedom, stability, and opportunity. Today, I will be there, in spirit if not in body, with my husband, my son, my family and friends...in the land of the free and the home of the brave.

We had a quiet, family day today. Our only adventure was a mile and a half walk to "Lavasport Lavandería," the nearest laundromat, to do our trio's two weeks worth of laundry. Yes, we have been here for almost two weeks now. It has gone so fast! Our hotel has a laundry service, but they charge per item and it is quite expensive: $6,000 pesos (roughly $3.00) a shirt, $7, 500 pesos for pants, and so on. You can imagine how fast laundry for two adults and a baby would add up! Being budget conscious, we decided to make a day of it and pack up our laundry in the stroller, strap Eli into the Baby Bjorn, and walk to the laundromat which is on Calle 116, a busy street full of fun restaurants and shops.

Packed for our trip to the laundromat!

On our way, we passed all sorts of familiar favorites: Burger King, McDonalds, Domino's Pizza, Papa John's, and even Hooters! These American fast food chains were peppered in amongst small local storefronts, as well as Colombian big box stores such as Pepe Ganga. The streets were busy today, with everyone bustling about and trying to get their business taken care of before the big game. Jamie and I took it all in and he commented on the juxtaposition of a people who are so polite and courteous when it comes to greeting and talking to each other (everyone greets each other formally, using usted rather than tu) yet are so rude (at least from our perspective) when it comes to driving! We feel perfectly safe walking amongst the crowds in Bogotá; people are friendly and helpful. Many look you in the eye, smile, and greet you with a "buenos días" as they pass. However, when it comes to crossing a street, we fear for our lives! The drivers here are fast and furious. Horns blare constantly, no one uses a turn signal, and motorcycles zoom in between automobiles, creating their own lanes of traffic, occasionally driving on the sidewalk to get around a car! And to think we used to complain about the "Tonawanda roll" through stop signs...Bogotá is definitely in a whole different league when it comes to disregard for traffic laws!

We did manage to arrive to Lavasport safely, only to find out that they had no electricity! The clerk, who only spoke Spanish explained that we could come back tomorrow to do our own laundry or we could leave it with them and pay for their laundry service. If we opted for the service, it would be done Monday, but it would cost twice as much as doing it ourselves. We looked at our heaping bag of laundry, precariously balanced on the stroller and thought about the half hour walk we had just made. Jamie and I talked quietly; we were leaning toward just leaving it there and paying the extra. Meanwhile, the clerk also spoke softly in Spanish to two of her colleagues. Then, she came back to us and said that we could wait upstairs, in their lounge area, for about an hour and by then the electricity would be back on.

We both agreed that we had nothing better to do, so I took Eli upstairs and played with him while Jamie walked up the street to the Colombian coffee chain Juan Valdez and got us both caramel lattés and some fresh bread to snack on. Fortunately, while he was gone, the electricity came back on! The place was very quiet, so we were able to secure three washers for ourselves and get everything going at once. We took turns holding Eli and letting him climb all over us, while we waited. It was a nice, clean place, with WiFi, too, and our three loads of laundry, washed and dried, only cost us $46, 000 pesos or $23.00. We were very pleased, as that $23.00 would have laundered less than four shirts at the hotel! We both felt it was well worth the small inconvenience.

Playing with Eli at Lavasport

On the way back home, we stopped off at Mimo's ice cream shoppe to help settle a long running debate between some of our FANA friends (Zgaljardics, Krulls and Blasers). Having had chocolate ice cream twice now at Crépes and Waffles, we had been tasked by Brian Krull to compare it to Mimo's chocolate ice cream and provide a tie breaker in the great debate over which business makes a better product. And the winner is...by unanimous Holden decision....Crépes! :)

Shortly after our ice cream stop, Eli began to have a melt down in his carrier. The poor little guy had been fed and diapered at the laundromat, but he was now 1/2 hour past his nap time and running out of patience with us. Jamie ended up taking the stroller of clothes from me and I carried him in my arms, thrashing and crying for the last quarter mile of the trip. Many a Colombian woman gave me that look..."This blonde girl has no idea how to properly handle that child!" But, there were several others who smiled, knowingly, and nodded their heads in condolence for the unavoidable, occasional baby tantrum. He was just exhausted and fighting it. He would stop mid-cry and actually close his eyes to start to sleep, then jerk himself awake and start pushing me away while screaming. Then, he'd be crawling up onto my shoulder and burying his head in my neck for a few seconds before thrashing again. He was acting like a little wild animal that I had picked up and tried to make a pet! Or, perhaps, he was just acting like a tired 9 month old! He slept for two hours when we got home and Jamie and I were able to eat some lunch and start watching the soccer match between Brazil and Colombia.

Even up in the apartment you could hear the noise and cheering on the streets as the game began. Horns honking, screaming, singing, etc. When Colombia sadly lost, it was sudden silence for about three hours until the "after party" began! Currently, from our window we can hear the buzz of a large crowd shouting, cheering and singing. There is a "ranchero" band (much like the Mexican mariachi bands) playing and an amplified announcer frequently speaks and solicits cheers or singing from the crowd. I'm not sure where the masses are gathered, but it sounds like thousands of people! If we weren't new parents, living with little Eli, it would be fun to wander out into the festivities. But, I'm so glad we are here, safe and sound, in our little apartment with Eli sleeping peacefully in his crib.

Eli spent some quality time, after his nap, hanging out with us on our King size bed as we watched the game. He ate dinner like it was his last meal: chicken, soup and broccoli, too! We think he's going through a growth spurt as his records stated he was a "not so good eater," but now he is devouring his food and has developed an adorable little round belly we love to rub and kiss! After Eli's dinner, he had a little music time with mama. I put my Music Together songs into a shuffled playlist and we sat on the floor together for about a half hour just singing, chanting, rocking, and bouncing. When the song "Playing in the Kitchen" came on, I decided to pull out some plastic tupperware to bang on. Eli was so fascinated by the shapes and depths of the various containers and lids and he entertained himself by putting the smaller pieces inside the larger ones and then dumping them and watching them scatter across the floor. Jamie and I ate some pizza while Eli scooted himself around the living room's wood floor, pushing around the tupperware and chasing it as it slid. Watching him, I realized that he's having trouble crawling on the wood floor because his little knees slide out from under him when he tries to move them. So, I moved him into our carpeted bedroom for the end of the night and we worked on crawling from mama to his new kitchen toys. He's getting very close to a proper crawl and becoming so strong! He keeps putting his little feet underneath him, instead of his knees, and pushing his body up into a downward dog posture! He must be watching my yoga routine...Too cute!

Crawl Postion!

Pushups!

Plank Position!

Downward Dog!

We got a little Skype time in with "Uncle" Mark, my cousin, right before we put Eli down for the night. It was so nice to share a little of my Eli time with Mark, who is also a daddy to my 15 month old niece, Avery. I missed my family today, so Mark's call was an unexpected treat.

My mom and I had a chance to catch up tonight, after Eli was sleeping. She is being so strong and brave as she navigates this new territory- parenting her parents. It breaks my heart to hear her tired voice struggle to stay positive as she shares the details of my grandparents' move out of the only home they've ever owned and into a nursing home. It is hard for me to really grasp their quick descent into the "elderly." I saw them the weekend before we left for Colombia and my 88 year old grandpa had driven them to and from my mom's house, a forty minute trip from their own home, as he always has. He did complain to me that his knee was bothering him a bit from mowing his sizable yard, which he always did himself, and the steep bank at the back of the lot. My grandma, although showing her age in the past few months, sat and talked with me about Eli and Colombia for a long while, holding my hand and smiling.

I remember, vividly, standing at the top of the staircase in the kitchen, watching them go down the steps to leave through the driveway level door. In the past year or two, I've become more concerned about them using that rather steep staircase and I always held my breath as my grandma clutched the railing and made her way down. Grandpa has always been fearless and he didn't hesitate for stairs, hills or any other challenge that presented itself. He was proud of his health and his strength- so uncommon for a man his age. On some level, I think I knew that it could be the last time I watched them complete this common action. Their coming and going from my childhood home has been a bi-weekly ritual for as long as I've been alive. They came to visit, to tell us stories of their week, to check in on my mom, to pull weeds in the garden, drop off some of Grandma's sewing, or just to see their grandchildren and then, later, their great-grandchildren. They have always been there, always been an integral part of our small, tight-knit family. But, as I watched them leave the house, this past Father's Day, I paused for a minute at the top of the stairs and thanked God for their presence in my life, for their health, and for all the time I've had with them. I also said a little prayer that they would be there when I returned from Bogotá, to hold my son and share in my long-awaited joy.

Tonight, I whisper that prayer again, tears falling freely, as I listen to my mother speak. This time I add another prayer of gratitude for the incredible woman my grandparents raised- the mother who shaped me and taught me everything I know about nurturing a child and the daughter who now cares for her parents and gently, patiently and valiantly guides them into their final chapter.

It is a story of love, no matter how you look at it. We can get caught up in the fear of death, the sorrow of loss and the inconvenience of illness, but none of that negates the miracle of a life lived- especially one lived well. My grandparents love each other. When Grandma visits Grandpa in the hospital, he tells her how pretty she looks and clears a spot for her to sit next to him. They hold hands throughout the whole visit, and when she leaves they put their heads together tightly and whisper sweet words. They are living and loving, at the end of their lives, better than some of us ever do.
Their legacy is the Love they taught their children, which spilled into the lives of their grandchildren, as well. It is the same Love I am able to share with Jamie and now with my own son, Elias.

The song I chose for my father and daughter dance at our wedding was that Celine Dion hit, Because You Loved Me. The refrain echoes through my thoughts as I write all of this. "I'm everything I am, because you loved me."

Grandma and Grandpa- We, all of us, are who we are and have what we have, because you loved us.
I believe this.

Although my son is adopted, he will inherit my grandparents' love like a family gene that is passed down from generation to generation. Because that is the power of Love. It has no boundaries, no limits and no end. It is really all that matters, truth be told. The rest will die away, but Love...
Love will remain.

Grandma and Grandpa, at my cousin Maria's wedding, October 2013

A Run, Some Sun and Lots of Fun

What a glorious, sun soaked day here in Bogotá. One of the things I like most about our apartment is the number of large windows it has. There are also no screens and surprisingly few insects. Our living room has two wall length windows that open like sliding glass doors and while they open only to a safety railing, no veranda or any sort of space to step out on, they extend our living space into the green grounds of La Fontana and the gentle breezes of Bogotá. Sunlight streams in all of the rooms in the morning and it makes me so happy.

After feeding Eli this morning, I decided to do a little yoga. I have an app on my iPhone which leads me through various routines with pictures, music and audio instructions. So I chose a half hour practice to "unwind the mind and unravel the body." Ever since our travel day (maybe even before), I've had lower back tension and just felt out of touch with my body. The adoption and travel affairs put a kink in my normal fitness schedule and as a result I haven't run or done much stretching in three weeks! It is hard for me to believe that I let that much time pass without exercise, but everything other than getting to Colombia and finally having Eli in my arms fell by the wayside once we knew our travel date!

The yoga was much needed and it felt fantastic to stretch out all those tight and achy muscles on Eli's baby quilt while he scooted around me and played happily with his toys nearby. It was a day for taking care of ourselves and we decided around 10:30am to pack up and head to the Parque El Country (the former polo fields I wrote about a few blogs back) for our first run here in Colombia.
We loaded Eli's stroller with all the necessities and walked down to the street, as a family. Jamie had found the park on Map My Run and we had mapped out the mileage of the trip there (.75 mile) and a lap around the perimeter (another .75 mile). He ran to the park and then did three laps to get a total of 3 miles in. Eli and I walked to the park and found a shady place to set up camp. He dozed in his stroller for a bit while I read a book and then daddy and I switched places so I could do 4 laps (3 miles), myself.

Daddy and Eli hanging out

Mama and Eli 

It felt so good to be physically active and to soak up some sun in that idyllic setting. The mountains serve as a backdrop to a wide green open space where families kick soccer balls and chase each other,  young adults lounge on the ground, sleeping alone or chatting together, and mamas watch their toddlers play in the sandboxes or on the swings at the edges of the fields.

Parque El Country

The air is much thinner here, as Bogotá is 8,600 feet (1.6 miles) above sea level. I definitely noticed a difference in my breathing, but I'm probably out of shape anyway after taking so much time off. Still, getting my heart rate elevated and feeling my cheeks flush was thrilling. There was a warm gentle breeze that kept the temperature very tolerable and plenty of shade sections on the path. Plus, I had the added incentive of seeing Jamie and Eli playing in the grass at the conclusion of every lap; it was truly one of the most enjoyable runs I have experienced.

Look, Dad- Grass!!!

After the park, we walked back home for lunch and put Eli and Daddy down for their naps. 

Add your own caption...

I opted for a little more time outside and took a book out to a pretty little nook I can see from our windows. What a luxury it seemed to sit so quietly, reading and pausing to reflect on the beauty of the sun filtering through the greenery. 

My Reading Room

I returned just as Eli was waking and Jamie started changing his diaper while I prepared his medicines. Suddenly, Jamie called out, "I need help!!! He's peeing...NOW!" I ran into the room to find Eli, pants and diaper off, projecting a downward spout on the changing pad which was rapidly flooding. I grabbed the edges of the pad and created a little boat to keep the liquid from spilling on the bed. "What should I do?" Jamie looked frantic, but I couldn't stop laughing! Having spent much time around little ones, I had been waiting for Eli to do something like this, but the two of us awkwardly scrambling in the tiny make-shift changing area, on a bed, trying to balance a half naked, peeing 9 month old and a changing pad boat full of pee, had me in stitches. "Cover it with a wipe," I managed to spit out and somehow we got the situation under control. 

We stripped our boy down naked, threw his soaked onesie in the bathroom sink with the changing pad and wiped him down. Now, we really should have immediately diapered him at that point, but we were going to give him a bath, so he remained in his birthday suit on my lap while Jamie gave him his dreaded nasal saline spray. He managed to get the nozzle in one nostril and spray when suddenly I felt a warm sensation spread through my lap. "Oh, my God! He's peeing again!" I could feel the pee soaking my own underwear through my skirt and dripping down my legs. It was the most bizarre experience, as if I was the one who had wet myself! This time, Jamie and I both were laughing so hard we were crying and Eli just stared at us, mouth open, in utter confusion. Of course, this just made it funnier! Jamie grabbed him and headed straight for the bathroom to get him bathed and this time I was the one stripping down and cleaning up. What a riot! I haven't laughed that hard in a very long time!

The rest of our day has been uneventful, in comparison. We have spent the late afternoon and evening just playing and singing with our son. He started saying "ma-ma-ma" the day I was sick in bed. I like to believe it was because he noticed my absence and was calling for me. But, the truth is that the sound isn't attached to anyone or anything, he is just jabbering. Still, it was fun to hear him saying it again today. He is learning to make all sorts of sounds now and he studies our mouths when we sing to him, trying to figure out how we are making the sounds. It is amazing to watch his learning. 

Singing to Eli

Tonight, after putting Eli to bed, we've planned a little stay-at-home date night for ourselves. Jamie picked up beef ribs and a bottle of red wine and is planning on making us a special dinner. We also decided, after two weeks without television in English, to sign up for a trial membership with Netflix. So, after dinner, we can snuggle up in the bed with the laptop and watch a movie.

It really was a perfectly ordinary day. But, if this is my new ordinary, I'll take it! I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be than here with my sweet son and my loving husband. Life is good.

Bienestar-"Well-being"

We had such a lovely day! Eli slept until 7am when I woke him for his bottle and medicines. He remained so amiable, even with the discomfort of the nasal spray and ear drops, throughout the morning as we prepared for our Bienestar interview with the Defender of Minors. We all had to dress up for this appointment, so we bought Eli a sweet little outfit Jamie found at Unicentro: navy velour pants, a white dress shirt and a white sweater vest with sailboats on it. Although it is rather

preppy compared to our usual picks for the tyke, we couldn't resist the cuteness of Eli looking all "young republican!"

Dressed to impress!

Maria Teresa drove us to the appointment and served as our translator for the interview. Eli slept the whole way there in the care while I nervously asked Maria Teresa about the whole interview process. She said that the interview was nothing to be afraid of and that, especially with an infant, the questions were usually pretty simple to answer. They just would want to know how Eli was adjusting, how we were handling parenthood, and if there had been any problems yet. I asked her if they would be concerned about his ear infection and she said, "No. Especially since you've seen a doctor and he's being treated." 

Traffic was terrible and it took us forty minutes to reach FANA which on a normal day is a 15-20 minute trip. So, by the time we arrived, the Defender of Minors, a man in his early forties with warm eyes and a quiet air of intelligence, along with our assigned lawyer, a friendly faced sixty-something named Dr. Polo, were already there. They invited us, right away, to join them in a meeting room. Introductions were made, in Spanish, and then Maria Teresa began translating the questions for us and the answers for the Defender. Eli had fallen asleep in the car so he was snuggly and drowsy in my arms. 

The first question was, "How is Eli doing with you?" I replied, "He is so good. He has an ear infection right now, and even though he is ill, he is so loving and pleasant. He is just a wonderful little boy." The defender listened to Maria Teresa, but studied Eli and I, carefully. The next question he asked was, "How are you handling your new role as parents?" Jamie jumped in to answer this one, but his voice broke and his eyes filled with tears as he responded, "We are loving this! We waited so long to be parents..." My eyes brimmed as well, as I completed the thought, "We feel so fortunate to be Eli's parents. He is such a beautiful little boy. We thank God everyday for this gift." At this point, both Jamie and I were wiping tears, Eli was reaching for my face, trying to decipher the tears, and the Defender was nodding his head with a subtle smile. Then, he asked us if we had been outside of Bogotá since we arrived. I explained that we were staying put until Eli was feeling better, but we definitely wanted to do some sight-seeing during the next few weeks. 

He spoke to the lawyer, at this point, and they pulled out some paperwork. Maria Teresa asked me to look it over with Jamie and to make sure all of our names were spelled correctly. Jamie took Eli in his arms while I signed three copies. Eli began to smile and laugh at Daddy's silly sounds, and the Defender of Minors asked me if we had any plans to travel outside of Bogotá. We told him that we wanted to see all of the city and some of the smaller towns around Bogotá, but since Eli was so young we were going to wait to take any longer trips. I told him that we would like to bring Eli back when he is older to see some of the other beautiful sights in Colombia. He smiled and seemed contented with this answer and stated that there are many beautiful places to visit, right around Bogotá. 

As Jamie signed the papers and I played with Eli, the lawyer explained that this paperwork concluded our files for the adoption and that all of our documents would be submitted to the court system now. The Defender of Minors added that he hoped that things would move along quickly for us and Dr. Polo laughed and said that if he had any say, we would get a fast court. But, unfortunately, it is a lottery system and he does not really have any influence in the matter. 

The Defender asked if we had been watching the World Cup games and Jamie was able to respond in Spanish, making the Defender's eyes open wider, in surprise and a big smile spread across his face. He said he wished us many years of happiness, as a family, and then he stood up and came around to our side of the table to shake both of our hands. Then he bent over and put a hand on Eli's head, took his tiny hands in his other palm spoke quietly to Eli. I did not understand what it was he said, but it was spoken very sweetly and with great compassion. He stood up and gave us one last beaming smile and made his exit.

The lawyer congratulated us and stepped outside the room to talk with Maria Teresa while Jamie and I embraced with Elias between us. We hadn't realized, walking in, that this appointment would be so emotional. But, this was the last major hoop we had to jump through to claim Eli as our own son. Now that it was over, we both felt this huge weight off of our shoulders and we were ready to celebrate!

We returned to the car to get some thank you gifts that we had purchased for the administration of FANA, a small token of our gratitude for the excellent care Elias had received while living there. We were able to chat a little more with Lorena, Maria Teresa Maldonado, and Adrianna, another psychologist at FANA who we had met at last year's golf tournament in Buffalo. On the way out, we stopped by the beautiful stain glass window in FANA's atrium to snap some photos. The light isn't great, but the day was important to us and we wanted to capture it.

On the way "home," we decided that we should go out for a celebratory meal at the famed Crepes and Waffles. Eli slept most of the car ride back and Maria Teresa explained the court process to us. 

Tomorrow our documents would be filed with the courts and our case would be entered into a computer lottery system by which we would be assigned a specific court. Once the court is selected, the documents will be sent over to the judge of that court. The judge has ten working business days to review all of our documents and make sure everything is complete and correct. The Bogotános label their courts "good," "bad" or "medium," depending on the speed with which the judge completes this process. So, if we get a "good court," this means that our judge will most likely complete this first step of the process in much less than ten days. After the judge accepts the documents, they are sent over to another Defender of Minors (not the one we met with today) and he has five working days to review and approve our case. He sends it back to the court and it goes through one last process called "setencia." Ten more business days are allowed for setencia (we are up to a possible 35 days now), a time in which our signatures and several others are collected to finalize the documents. The 35 days are counted from the day your documents are received at your assigned court. Maria Teresa said that this week is probably a wash for us, but that our countdown should begin by Monday. Of course, things could move along much more quickly, and in rare cases (such as a worker's strike, an extended holiday, etc.) even more slowly. 

So, we still do not really have a time line, but I do have a better understanding of the process. Jamie, Eli and I spent a quiet afternoon at the apartment (we all got a nice hour long nap in after lunch) and then we headed over to Unicentro to check out Crepes and Waffles. All of the FANA families who have come to Bogotá before us rave about the gastronomical delights of this Colombian chain restaurant that specializes in an extensive array of ice cream treats and crepes and waffles designed for breakfast, lunch or dinner. 

We parked our stroller at the front of the restaurant and put Eli in a high chair at the table. I had fed him three containers of fresh pureed food before we left (carrots, apple and cereal) and he was in good spirits. He played happily, slapping the table, waving a wet wipe around wildly, and grabbing anything he could get his hands on, while we reviewed the English version of the menu. 

Grabbing Jamie's placemat

I ordered pumpkin soup with pesto and goat cheese and a chicken, cheese and spinach crepe while Jamie opted for onion soup and a bread bowl of beef stew. My soup was delicious (my mouth is watering just thinking about it!) and I must have been making good food noises as I ate because I realized Eli's eyes were intently focused on me and my food. I decided to offer him a little bite and he lapped it right up, opening his mouth for more. This became a very entertaining scenario for not only Jamie and I, but also the table behind us who were watching Eli demand more and more soup from an oversized spoon.

When I tried to feed myself he would start to whimper and reach his hand out to pat my arm, as if I had forgotten he was next to me! That little open mouth reminded me of a hungry baby bird in the nest; he was going to squawk at his mama until I dropped another bite of my gourmet pumpkin soup into his little beak! What can I say? My kid has good taste! He also ate a several bites of Jamie's onion soup and even attempted a little spinach from my crepe. I guess we don't need to worry about him eating anymore! Once he was satiated, he played quietly with a napkin and Jamie and I finished our dinner with a shared chocolate crepe topped with ice-cream. What a treat! It was really such a happy time for all of us.

My son and I at Crepes and Waffles

We rushed home to catch a 7:00 Skype appointment with my mom and dad, grandma, Aunt Deanna and cousin Amy, who were all gathered at my parents' house. My grandma came and sat right in front of the computer screen so we could see her well and she could see Eli. She told him she loved him and exclaimed her wonder at his dimples, his chatter, his attempts at kisses and his scooting/crawling movements- all of which he demonstrated with a true performer's commitment to entertain! He loves to see the faces on my phone screen and hear the voices of our friends and family. I think he knows that it is all about him and he loves the attention! 

Around 8pm we got him changed and ready for bed. He was so good about taking his medicines and he went down in the crib quite easily. His ear infection appears to be improving and his temperament was excellent today. We feel so fortunate to have such an easy going little boy. He makes us smile and laugh all day long; his fussiness is short lived and his enthusiasm is abundant. Tonight we go to bed feeling peaceful, happy and blessed. I imagine this is exactly what Bienestar is looking for in families- well-being. 

What a gift it is to love a child. It is a love that affects every aspect of your being and living. To all my mama and papa friends and readers out there, I wish you a quiet moment to reflect on and appreciate your own good fortune- the spectacular miracle of an ordinary family.

Under the Weather

Well, there is that saying..."When it rains, it pours..."
I was finally starting to feel like a human being again after that nasty stomach episode yesterday. A little weak and tired, but my stomach settled before bedtime last night and I slept pretty soundly. Then, Eli woke us up at 5am, screaming, which is very uncharacteristic. He was unconsolable for an hour and we tried everything we could think of: the teething gel, a bottle, diaper change, singing, rocking...Nothing was comforting the poor little guy. Finally, around 6am, I broke out the bottle of children's ibuprofen I had purchased before coming to Colombia. I had talked to our pharmacist and asked her what she thought I might want to have on hand for a nine month old and she had recommended the ibuprofen, tylenol, the teething gel and a gas relief medication. I gave Eli the correct dosage for his weight and prayed it would bring him some comfort. I'm discovering that there is no worse feeling than seeing your child in pain and not being able to help. Jamie and I were both feeling terrible and wishing he could just tell us where it hurt.

By 6:30am he was calming down and he fell asleep in my arms. I propped myself up in the bed, next to Jamie, with Eli on my chest, and we all slept for another hour. Today was our immigration appointment, so we had to be out the door by 9am. Elias played quite happily on his quilt while Jamie made breakfast (which, unfortunately, I wasn't able to eat quite yet) and prepared some purees for Eli.  I got dressed and ready and then we switched places; I fed Eli so Jamie could get cleaned up. It was strange how quickly our little boy had returned to his sweet, easy going disposition. He ate well for me, we've seen a big improvement these past few days in his appetite, and then I set him down on the floor to play for a bit while I cleaned up. When I walked back over to pick him up, I noticed a yellow stain on the shoulder of his white onesie. Laughing, I muttered, "How did you get your food up on your shoulder, goofball?!!" As I looked closer, I realized that his left ear was oozing a thick yellow mucus and that the he had been rubbing his ear on his shoulder.

Poor little guy! No wonder he was inconsolable. I had a terrible ear infection as a young adult and the pain was so bad I ended up in the emergency room with a shot of demerol! I can't even imagine being as little as Eli and suffering that kind of pain. Surprisingly, the ibuprofen seemed to be giving him relief and he remained pleasant and content while I started freaking out about my discovery.

I wonder why mom's so upset... 

We called FANA to see if we could talk to his doctor, Lorena, and we were asked to call back in an hour or so. So, I cleaned the outside of his ear with a warm washcloth, which he did not like at all, and we packed him up and headed out to the immigration office. Maria Teresa met us in our parking garage and we all walked up to the street and hailed a cab. I guess parking is a nightmare at  immigration, so this was the easier option. On a side note, we can't get over how cheap the cab fares are here. It took us about 15 minutes to get to immigration and the fare was $6,000 pesos which amounts to approximately $3.00! The same ride would probably cost 10 times that in NYC!

Maria Teresa was not allowed to enter the building with us, but instructed us on where to go and what to do. She waited outside and we headed in with Eli. Thank goodness we had packed a full bag for our little boy. We ended up feeding him again there and changing his diaper before we were finished. Everyone was very kind and it was not at all an unpleasant experience, just a lengthy one! We got back to the apartment around noon and Maria Teresa came up to our place with us and called FANA herself. She put Lorena on the phone with me who agreed to see Eli right away if we could get him to FANA before 3pm. So, off we went again- this time in Maria Teresa's car, back to FANA to have Lorena check our little guy out.

When we arrived many of the staff popped their heads in the green room to see us, while we waited for Lorena. Then, she took us back to a tiny patient room and she listened to Eli breathe, checked his oxygen levels with a tiny device called an oxymeter that is held on his finger, and looked at both his ears. We also weighed him in at 7.8 kilograms which equals 17.2 lbs. This was good news, because Eli has been underweight and is finally starting to beef up!

We were relieved to hear that his lungs sound perfectly fine (he has a history of respiratory issues so we have to keep a close watch on this), and his oxygen levels and heart beat are both good. He has had a bit of a cough since the day we received him, but they had told us this was fine and he was recovering from bronchitis which he had in early June. We were given two medications for him on the day of the presentation: one for reflux and an inhaler to help with the bronchial issues. Lorena said that our pediatrician may decide that those medications are no longer necessary when we get home, but while we are here in Colombia, she would prefer we continue them just to be on the safe side. But, I digress...

It appears that the ear infection is a result of a very stuffy nose which is draining in to his ears and throat. The cough I've been hearing more frequently these past two days and the fluid in the left ear are both caused by this congestion. I also learned that reflux can create many problems for babies, not just the typical spitting up issue. Eli is taking reflux medication three times a day and I have yet to see him spit up any food or formula. But, Lorena told me that some of this fluid build up can be caused by the reflux. I will have to do more research on that, as it is possible I misunderstood or her translation from Spanish to English was a little off. Anyway, she wrote us a script for four more medications and sent us on our way! The staff at the little pharmacy, Olympia, which is near our place, is getting to know Jamie well. He was just there yesterday playing charades and trying to find a treatment for my stomach bug! But, they've been extremely helpful. They didn't have the antibiotic Lorena requested so they had Jamie pay for it and they ordered and delivered it to our apartment within an hour and a half.

Elias is now taking six medications which definitely complicates our schedule. He has an antibiotic for the ear infection, ear drops, children's tylenol (Lorena prefers it over the ibuprofen), a nasal saline spray, the inhaler and the reflux medication! Still, somehow the kid remains in pretty good spirits and that keeps Jamie and I smiling, too! He cries and screams when we give him some of the medicines, but recovers so quickly and is back to making raspberries, jabbering energetic nonsense, and crawling up and down and all around us like a little monkey, within minutes. We can't get over how much we love this kid!

Playing with mommy's bracelet is a new favorite pastime

Couch time

You know...This ear infection thing is working out alright for me. I'm getting sooooo much attention!

Whee!!!

He missed his nap due to all the commotion, but was very loving and sweet all evening. He ate well at dinner time, suffered through another round of meds, and fell asleep drinking his 8pm bottle. As for Jamie and I, we feel so much better knowing what is wrong and how to fix it. I'm hoping we will all sleep well tonight after such a busy day.

Clean bib...

Dirty bib...

Getting tired...

Down for the count!

Tomorrow is another early morning for our family. We will be out the door by 9:15am for our Bienestar interview at FANA. This is an interview with the Defender of Minors here in Bogotá, and it concludes our paperwork process for the adoption. After this interview, if all goes well, the Defender will file his report with all of our other documents in the court system. Then all we have to do is wait. It will likely be a week or two before we hear which court we have been assigned to and then we will wait even longer for a court date. For those who are wondering when we will be coming home, it is impossible to determine at this point. It could be three to four weeks before we have our court date. Once it is determined, we should be able to plan our return flights within a week of that date.

Maria Teresa explained to me today that "court" here in Bogotá is nothing like in the U.S. She said that we will not see a judge or go into a fancy courtroom. She told us that only one of us needs to appear for the appointment and you do not need to dress up. She said the court offices are small and not even as nice as the immigration offices. We won't be asked any questions, either. One of us just has to show up and sign the documents that finalize our adoption of Elias. Sounds pretty simple, right?!! I think the difficult part will be the uncertain time table.

So, our plan is to get through tomorrow's interview, which is a formal question and answer session to evaluate the quality of Eli's placement with us, get everyone in the family healthy again, and then try to get out and see more of Colombia and enjoy the waiting time as much as we can. There is much to see and do here and we will have time on our hands; I'm looking forward to some family fun and the making of memories we will hold dear when we return to the states.