Wednesday, July 30, 2014

A Day to Remember: The Baptism of Maria Angel

On Sunday, July 27th, 2014, we became Padrinos or Godparents to a beautiful Colombian little girl named, Maria Angel. Those of you who have been following the blog know how this all came to be. Those who don't, can read the back story here: Communion with Strangers

Our morning journey started at 8:45am. Patricia, Jorge's wife, picked us up and accompanied us to the town of Chiquinquirá for the baptism. Jorge, unfortunately, was unable to attend, but his wife speaks enough English to be of great service to us and she was willing to sign on for a full day of travel and festivities. The Cuesta family decided to have the baptism in the town where Geraldin grew up and where her mother still lives, Chiquinquirá, rather than Chocontá where they currently reside and run their bakery. 

Chiquinquirá is often referred to as the religious capital of Colombia. In 1586, a miracle occurred in the original church at Chiquinquirá which involved a tattered old painting of the Virgin Mary suddenly appearing restored and illuminated. This was the first of many reported manifestations of Mary and she soon became known as Our Lady of the Rosary of Chiquinquirá. This South American title was given to Mary as pilgrims began to flock to the town to view the painting which remains there, in the basilica, to this day. Mary, the Lady of the Rosary of Chiquinquirá, is the patron saint of Colombia, Venezuela and Cuba. Many believe prayers received from Chiquinquirá will be answerd and even today, thousands of pilgrims travel to the town seeking a miracle. Perhaps, the Cuestas chose this site for their daughter's baptism, due to the rich religious history. In any case, it was an opportunity for us to experience a new place of note in Colombia, so we happily agreed to make the two and a half hour journey to be a part of Maria Angel's baptismal service. 

The trip there was definitely the most scenic car ride we've experienced yet. The ride was long, but there was so much beauty to take in. Incredible mountain views, green pastures, a lake, farms, and several small villages held our interest as we made our morning journey. What continued to surprise me was the contrast between the wealth of land and the poverty of home. The most spectacular pieces of property with views Americans would have to pay hundreds of thousands of dollars for were served as the foundation for homes those same Americans would deem unlivable property. No 3,500 square foot colonials looked out over these Colombian valleys. Simple shacks and cottages, instead, claimed the breathtaking vistas. There weren't any developments, model homes or the makings of an American-like suburb. In the city of Bogotá, there are shanty towns and homes packed close together. But, here in the county, there was an abundance of land. One small, simple house at a time, on a sizable piece of property...It seems to me a good way to live. 

Along the way, we encountered what seemed to be a mile long parade, honoring the Virgin of Carmen, Colombia's patron saint of drivers. Traffic proceeded in the right lane as a parade of blue and white decorated bicycles, trucks, cars, tractors and motorcycles slowly made its way forward in the left lane. Adults and children waved from flatbed trucks and blue and white balloons bounced and flew as the vehicles rolled along, honking horns and declaring their love and thanks for Carmen's protection.



We arrived in Chiquinquirá around 11:30am and met Octavio, Geraldin, Maria Angel, Sarah Valentina, and some of their extended family at  a small church on a local college campus. We gathered in the church's office, waiting for the morning mass to finish, and signed the necessary documents. Then we all gathered outside the church's main entrance for some photos.

Maria Angel sleeps while we wait in the office

Our new Colombian family: Octavio's grandparents and Geraldin's mother, aunt and brother

Jamie, Maria Angel, Octavio, Elias, Geraldin, and I 




Soon we were ushered into the church to talk very briefly with the priest. We explained that we had prepared an appropriate song to offer as a gift and almost immediately we were led to the keyboard and microphones set up at the side of the church. We were to perform the opening hymn! We had chosen a song by Sara Groves that was dear to us, You Cannot Lose My Love. The song explains that as we grow up, we lose many things along the way. But, God's Love, and similarly, the love of parents, is unconditional and cannot be lost. I have linked the song to this blog page, so you can hear it. The lyrics are below:

                                                 "You Cannot Lose My Love"


You will lose your baby teeth.
At times, you'll lose your faith in me.
You will lose a lot of things,
But you cannot lose my love.

You may lose your appetite,
Your guiding sense of wrong and right.
You may lose your will to fight,
But you cannot lose my love.

You will lose your confidence.
In times of trial, your common sense.
You may lose your innocence,
But you cannot lose my love.

Many things can be misplaced;
Your very memories be erased.
No matter what the time or space,
You cannot lose my love.
You cannot lose,
You cannot lose,
You cannot lose my love.



There were two other children being baptized that day, in addition to Maria Angel. All of the parents and Godparents sat in the front row of the congregation with the children. It was a full mass, with the rest of the music beautifully performed by two talented teenaged girls. 

The mass was entirely in Spanish, but I tried to follow along and said the prayers I knew in English along with the congregation. The priest gave a passionate homily, received by nods, a few chuckles, and even some verbal responses to questions he posed. Unfortunately, the language was delivered much to quickly for Jamie or I to catch most of it. He did, however, refer to the visiting Americans once or twice and gave us a big smile when he did. 

Listening to the sermon
The priest blessed Maria Angel and made the sign of the cross on her forehead and then asked Jamie and I to do the same. This process was repeated with oil and we were asked to dedicate Maria Angel to the Lord by saying her name out loud. 

Maria Angel receiving her blessing
Then, I carried Maria Angel over to a small, empty basin. Her mother, Geraldin, and I cradled her in our arms, with her head above the basin as the priest poured the blessed water on her forehead, and dedicated her soul to the Lord. 


Comforting a wet headed Maria Angel after her baptism 
After all three children were baptized, Jamie and the other Godfathers were given candles, which they lit from a large candle at the side of the church. The smaller lit candles were then handed to the families of the baptized, a prayer was said and then they were extinguished and kept as keepsakes. 

Holding the baptismal candle



The mass concluded with communion and then we greeted the priest, thanked him, and took some photos before leaving the church.


Maria Angel

Maria Angel, Elias James and Sarah Valentina
Mama!!! Help! I think she's trying to kiss me! 
Octavio and Geraldin's extended family had immediately welcomed us with warm smiles and hugs. Geraldin's mother and aunt sat behind us in the church and took turns holding Eli and keeping him quietly occupied. Octavio's grandmother (abuela in Spanish) immediately connected with me and we walked out of the church arm in arm. 

We all piled into cars and made the short drive to Geraldin's aunt's home where a small reception had been prepared. We were treated to large and delicious lunch plates piled high with chicken, rice, potatoes, and a cold salad of mango, peas, raisins, greens and sausage. The brightly painted walls of the home, teamed with balloons and a banner, made for a festive ambiance for our little gathering. 


We had a wonderful time chatting with the family, laughing with them at our own Spanish mistakes, watching the children interact, and sharing stories about family, our path to adoption, and the differences in American and Colombian culture. Octavio even convinced us to sing again, this time in Spanish. We sang a simple children's song we know while the family gathered around us with their cell phones, recording the performance! We tried to convince the crowd to return the favor and sing for us, but only Geraldin's cousin's daughter, a sweet and precocious three year old, was willing to perform "Let it Go" from Frozen, in Spanish! It was really such a fun afternoon. 


Geraldin and Octavio's Grandmother

Geraldin's younger sister, Laura, Geraldin's mother, and Maria Angel
Proud Parents: Geraldin and Octavio
Abuela y Abuelo- Octavio's Grandparents

Geraldin's younger brother, Sergio
The little ones: Maria Angel, 1 year old, and Eli, 10 months

Laura and Eli

Laura and Sarah Valentina with the English/Spanish bible stories we gave her as a gift

The party concluded with a delicious cake and hugs all around. Then, several of us got back in the cars for a quick walk around the main square in Chiquinquirá and a visit to the famed La Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Chiquinquirá (the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Chiquinquirá)

We walked the cobblestone streets, Laura and Sarah Valentina holding my hands, and took in the beautiful blue skies and old, quaint beauty of the legendary town. 




Suddenly, the street opened into a vast, open square and the basilica towered before us.



Heavenly Skies
The girls clamored up the steps, posing for pictures, and then we all entered the incredible sanctuary.








There was a mass taking place when we walked in, but visitors were allowed to walk around the perimeter of the church and observe the stunning architecture and monuments to various saints. 

Saint Martin- My grandfather's last name...
After the basilica, we wandered around the square, stopping in some shops and looking for a gift for my grandma. We settled on a rosary, made with rose petals. The flowers give the wooden beads a beautiful mauve color and a strong, sweet fragrance. 

Geraldin and Octavio wandered off for awhile and Patricia and I sent Jamie to get us some cappuccinos before we started the long drive back. I guess Jamie had trouble finding an open café, because we thought we lost him for awhile! Patricia, Eli and I stood out in the sun for awhile, chatting with Octavio's grandparents, Geraldin's brother Sergio, and their cousin. The grandfather mentioned that he'd like to show us the original church in Chiquinquirá, a smaller, quieter place, just a short walk away. Jamie finally found us, his hands full of hot coffees, and we all walked together to the little church. 

My hero, saving the day with caffeinated beverages!

The main square

Hanging out with our "adopted" Colombian Grandparents
 Statue of Simón Bolívar
I got a little help with Eli while I sipped my Cappuccino!

The original church site

A quiet, simple and serene sanctuary
We took a quick tour of the church and met up again with Octavio and Geraldin as we were exiting the church. They had gone off to purchase gifts for Jamie, Eli and myself, and returned with arms full of colorful packages. We told them how unnecessary this was, but we did appreciate the kind gesture. They had chosen bags for both Jamie and I; I received a colorful hand made purse and Jamie received a red and beige burlap messenger bag with "Mi Colombia" printed on it. They also presented us with a bag full of gifts for Eli: a tiny guitar, a little toy keyboard, maracas, and an adorable brown and orange striped sweater. We posed for one last photo, our children reaching for each other, before we started the walk back to the cars. 


Two good papas- walking and talking as they carry their children
In the parking lot, all of our group reconvened and exchanged hugs and well wishes. Geraldin's mother, her brother, sister, and her cousin all encouraged us to come back to Colombia soon and told us that we had Colombian family now. Octavio's grandmother embraced me, tearfully, and said that they would be waiting for us. Then we kissed Maria Angel and Sarah Valentina goodbye and said our final farewell to the Cuesta family. 

Jamie played with Eli in the back seat while Patricia and I happily chattered, reflecting on the amazing day we had all shared. I asked her if she had enjoyed herself and she said, "Today, lives were changed. I think this is very special to be a part of." 

I couldn't agree more.

 “Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, 
deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” – Miriam Beard













Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Happy Days

Time has been slipping away from me, as we've grown busy again with appointments and paperwork. This past week has been exciting and exhausting. This morning, Jamie commented that all three of us look a little dazed and confused! It has been a whirlwind of activity. I'm going to try to be more succinct than usual and give you the highlights, so I can be caught up with the blog before we fly home!

Last Thursday evening, July 24th, 2014, we had the pleasure of spending the evening with Leigh Ann and Ken Pyc's three children: Luisa, Andres and Milena. Their mom and dad were able to enjoy dinner out and some quiet time as a couple, while the kids played UNO and Old Maid with us, around our kitchen table. Our friend, Maria Christina, from upstairs, also popped in for a few rounds and fun was had by all. The kids are just fantastic; they are great with Eli and so polite and friendly with us, despite the language barrier. Eli loved all the attention and just being a part of the group. He sat on my lap, quietly, while we played cards and took the whole scene in.

Playing Horsey with Luisa and Milena


What a great smile!


What are the rules, again?!!

Lovely Luisa

Andres is quite the card player! He won almost every game!

Maria Cristina and Luisa

Teamwork!
Action shot...

Eli and Luisa

Taking a break to just observe the game with Eli

What a crew!

Friday morning, 7/25/14, Maria Teresa took us to a notary where Eli's Colombian birth certificate was updated to reflect his new name. His biological mother named him Elí Lopez Ramirez (Lopez Ramirez matches her name and reflects her own mother and father's last names), his Colombian birth certificate has now been updated to read Elias James Holden Klein. It is the Colombian tradition to inherit both your father's and your mother's last name. Women here do not change their last names when they marry. Children have a first name and middle name and then two last names. Often times, they only use the first of the two last names (the father's), but all of their legal documents reflect both apellidos.

A Happy Holden!

Waiting for the birth certificate

These friendly women who worked at the notary office were so nice to us
Next, we took the updated birth certificate to the passport office, where Eli's picture was taken and we applied for his Colombian passport. He was very patient with all the time in the car and the sitting around and waiting. We've learned to pack a full bag for paperwork appointments, because we never know how long they will really take. We bring his food, bib, medicine, diapers, toys, and a change of clothes. The stroller and Baby Bjorn have also been invaluable. The little guy even managed to sneak in a nap in the car; he's a good little traveler!

Mama and Eli in the car
We had talked to Jorge, previously, about visiting Monserrate Friday evening, and he was waiting for our call. We returned to the apartment at 3pm, put Eli down in the crib to finish his nap, and called Jorge immediately. He said we could still make it to Monserrate before sunset if we left around 4:30pm. So, we grabbed a snack, restocked the backpack, bundled Eli up and headed out the door again. One of our FANA friends back home, Colleen, had recommended we try to watch the sunset from Monserrate. Both Jorge and Maria Teresa seemed a bit surprised at this request when we mentioned it, but I was completely taken with the idea and we had held out for a sunny, clear afternoon. Our timing couldn't have been better. We arrived at the foot of the hill around 5:30pm, a half hour before sunset. 

Monserrate is a 10,341 foot mountain that sits in the center of Bogotá. On its peak, a 17th century cathedral dedicated to El Señor Caído (fallen Lord) stands and can be seen from most places in the city. When you are at the top of Monserrate, you are nearly two miles above sea level. If the altitude doesn't leave you breathless, the view certainly will! I apologize for the abundance of pictures, but we couldn't help ourselves. Unfortunately, they do not do the experience justice. However, I do believe they come closer than my words could. 

The ticket office, at the foot of Monserrate



Jorge, Jamie and Eli

Waiting in line for the aerial cable car
Mama and Eli holding on tight


The sun was still up as we ascended 
Up, up, up we go!
At the top of the mountain, sunlight illuminated the lush foliage and the city sprawled out to the horizon line: towering skyscrapers, stadiums, the terra cotta tile roofs of La Candelaria, homes, green spaces, and a lake at the edge of the city could all be recognized from our bird's eye view. The pictures don't capture the these details, but the light was so lovely...












We stood for a long time on the top terrace surrounding the church and watched the sun set. Then, we walked through a cobble stoned corridor, next to the church, full of vendors and souvenirs. We picked up two more of Eli's 18 gifts: a hand made sweater and a little key chain with a leather hand crafted soccer shoe attached. 






We headed back to the terrace, after dark, to snap a few more pictures of the illuminated city view and then we walked over to the restaurant across from the church for a special meal in a cozy, beautiful setting.












The restaurant at Monserrate

The entrance feels like a cottage right out of a fairy tale...

Beautiful ambiance

There just happened to be a piano player at the restaurant that night and...he was playing the great American songbook! I immediately recognized some of the tunes as jazz standards and was having trouble not singing along! I asked Jorge if he thought it would be alright if I went over and asked if I could sing a song, and he jumped right up and went over to converse with the pianist in Spanish while I finished feeding Eli the food we had packed him. 

Soon, they motioned for me to join them at the piano and the pianist, who was a conservatory trained Cuban musician, welcomed me with a huge grin and started naming tunes he knew. We settled on "When I Fall In Love," and then "New York, New York." What a treat for me to get a chance to sing with a talented pianist, after being without a musical outlet for over a month! The restaurant crowd seemed to appreciate our collaboration; the performances were greeted with applause and many smiles and nods. 


Making music at Monserrate
We shared a delicious meal with Jorge and then made our way back down the mountain, ready to turn in after a full day.
A delicious dinner and great company, too!
Saturday morning, 7/26/14, Maria Teresa picked up Jamie and they headed back to the passport office to pick up Eli's finished passport. He looks very serious in the picture and so incredibly cute! (I'm not at all biased!)



I stayed home with Eli and then we walked over to Oma for lunch, after Jamie returned. The Pyc family called and invited us up to their apartment in the late afternoon for snacks and some social interaction. The Ensey family, from Tennessee, also joined us and we ended up ordering pizza and staying for dinner. It was really a pleasure to get together, exchange stories, laugh and let the kids play together. I'm so glad we were able to connect with these other American families and be a part of their adoption adventures, as well. 

Jamie and the kids at the Pyc's place

Andres spent some quality time with Eli

Angie Ensey and her new mama, Erica 

Justin Ensey, sharing songs on YouTube with Milena and Andres

Angie and mom performing "Los Pollitos" for us
We headed to bed early that night because the next day, Sunday, was Maria Angel's baptism in the town of Chiquinquirá. But, that special day warrants a blog of its own. So, my next entry will pick up our story there. 

For now, this tired mama is going to go kiss her boy goodnight and crawl under the covers, herself. 

“To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.” – Bill Bryson