Salt for the Soul; Saltines for the Stomach

Yesterday marked one week since our arrival here in Colombia. Maria Teresa had offered to take us on an excursion, and we were ready to get out for a change of scenery. We packed up Eli and all his gear (no small task as all you parents know) and headed out for the day around 10:15am. We stopped and picked up Maria Teresa's friend, Carmen, who used to own the recently closed Il Refugio. Il Refugio was one of the places we considered staying here in Bogotá, as many of our FANA friends had stayed there during their own adoptions. It was so nice to meet Carmen and chat with her, we have many common friends from the US, who she housed and fed and assisted during this special time in their lives.

With Carmen in tow, we were off to Nemocon a happening little town about an hour and 15 minutes north of Bogotá. Nemocon is home to one of two salt mines that are very well known in this part of Colombia. We weren't exactly sure what to expect, but all three of us welcomed a chance to get out of our familiar hotel radius and see more of this interesting country. We traveled through several small towns as the landscape became more rural. The poverty and ram-shack housing of these areas sits in sharp contrast with the green fields, lush flowers, and towering mountains. Milk cows are everywhere; they roam right into the main streets of the town, paying no regards to the remnants of fences meant to contain them. The drive to Nemocon was a feast for the eyes. We kept Eli in his carrier, attached to Jamie, most of the time, as the roads are in very tough shape and impressively bumpy in the more rural areas. But, as the traffic and speed of our journey slowed down, I held him on my lap and he reached happily toward the window, watching the blur of color and texture go by.

A Colombian Car Seat

Old brick structures are characteristic of these small towns...

Cows strolling down Main Street

Entering Namocon

Nemocon was the prettiest of the towns we saw. The buildings and storefronts were freshly painted bright, festive colors, and all the structures looked to be in better condition that the other towns. I'm sure this is a result of the tourism that the Salt Mine brings to the little town. Maria Teresa also told us that the town received a facelift when it was chosen by an American film producer to be the set for a movie starring Antonio Banderas, portraying the recent Chilean mining disaster.

Bright colored store fronts

We walked through town and past the main square and church. Apparently, all Colombian towns are designed in the same way, with the heart of town being a square or plaza directly in front of the town church. We paused for some pictures and then continued on up a hill toward the entrance of the Salt Mine attraction. 

Carmen, Jamie and Eli

In the main square at Namocon

The town church

We paid our entrance fee of $18,000 pesos each (doesn't that sound so expensive?) which amounts to approximately $9.00. Maria Teresa and Carmen decided to wait for us at a table near the entrance as they had been in the mine several times before. So, we quickly gave Eli a bottle, grabbed our hard hats and jumped in the next available tour group. 

The tour was an hour and a half long and all in Spanish. The guide was so nice to us and kept thanking us, in Spanish, for coming to Colombia. He also told us about a relative of his in Tampa, Florida. But, I think that was about all Jamie and I understood the entire time we were down there! Still, it was a nice way to spend a few hours. The mine was actually warmer than the air up above and  the salt structures were quite fascinating. Some were beautifully lit with colored lights and there was a little cathedral built into the mine with benches where Eli and I took a break and he fell asleep in my arms. 

Honestly, it was probably better that we couldn't understand the tour guide; we didn't have to feel bad for not paying too much attention. We lingered at the back of the crowd, more fascinated with our son than the salt mine. I think we are still so infatuated with Eli, it is hard for us to focus on anything else.
We took turns holding him, as he alternated between sleep and awake time. At one point during the day, Jamie commented, "My arm is tired, my shoulder aches, my fingers are falling asleep, and I'm completely happy. I wouldn't give this up for anything!" A little discomfort for that beautiful little face nuzzled into your chest, the warm bundle of his body all snug against yours...It is such a small price to pay.

Near the end of the tour, everyone began rubbing their hands on the wall of one of the caves. A group of young girls even took their shoes off and rubbed the bottom of their feet on the wall. One of the girls spoke a little English, so I asked her why we were rubbing the wall. She told me that the salt was good for your aura, good for your soul. I could feel the warmth of the wall under my palm, it was comforting. Eli reached his little hand out and Jamie put his hand on the wall, so he could feel it, too.

I like to think our auras were pretty bright as we walked out of that mine.

After the tour, Maria Teresa and Carmen took us to a local restaurant, La Chocita, for a late lunch. The atmosphere was fun and eclectic, with bottles of wine and liquor strung in garlands across the ceiling. We sat at a long picnic table, on benches. Eli's stroller was parked at the end of the table and he was quiet and content, after another bottle. Jamie and I both tried a famous Bogotá traditional dish,   ajiaco, a soup of chicken, potatoes, corn, avocado, rice, capers, and a spice unique to Colombia, "guasca." I've been wanting to try this stew and Maria Teresa assured us that it was very good at that location. The soup was delicious. Even Eli enjoyed a few bites. Our beverages were fresh tropical

fruit juices blended with milk and ice in to a sort of smoothie. Again, this tasted so good, but I have a feeling that unwashed fruit or perhaps ice made of contaminated water is what did me in today. 

After lunch, we walked back behind the restaurant and looked at the cows in the pasture. There were also horses across the street...So much for Eli to take in. He slept most of the way home and by the time we got back to our apartment it was 5:30pm. We thanked Maria Teresa and Carmen and exchanged warm hugs. It was such a wonderful day for us; a nice family outing with two very kind and informative new friends. 

After our big adventure, we had a quiet night at home. We managed to Skype with our friends from The Lake Effect (TLE), the a cappella group Jamie sings with back in Buffalo, and we also received a phone call from Jorge Rico, the tour guide who helps all our FANA families see the sights around Bogotá. He just called to introduce himself and give us his contact information so, when we are ready, he can help us make plans to do more sight seeing. 

I was feeling pretty exhausted last night, so I skipped the blog and went to bed. Our hope had been to rise early and walk several blocks to Usaquen, a part of the city that contains a well-known flea market and artisans bazarr on Sundays and Monday holidays. Since today was another holiday, it seemed a perfect day for this outing. 

However, I woke at six-thirty to give Eli his bottle and I didn't feel quite right. In the middle of changing his clothes, I had to call for Jamie and run to the bathroom. What ensued was twelve hours of twisting and turning in bed from stomach cramps, frequent trips to the bathroom, a low grade fever, chills and snatches of sleep wherever I could get them. 

We've been very careful about drinking the water here. We boil two large pots of water every other day and bottle it in our fridge for drinking and making Eli's bottle. I even kept a bottle next to the sink the first few days we were here to brush my teeth with, but I've been using the tap water recently and just being careful not to swallow any. The first few days we were here, I definitely felt a bit of the altitude sickness you hear about with Bogotá. I was tired and achy, had a mild head ache and just felt a little out of sorts. But, the past four or five days I've been feeling pretty good. This completely caught me off guard.

Poor Jamie had to be a single parent today. As I laid in bed and listened to him juggle Eli's schedule on his own: bath time, diaper changes, feedings. playtime, teething fuss, naps, etc., I had a new appreciation for single parents. It is so hard to manage all of that on your own. Of course, my husband is kind of a rock star care giver. He takes excellent care of me and now he does the same for our son. He and Eli went to the grocery store and the pharmacy for me and came home with ginger ale, saltines, and something the pharmacist gave him when he acted out my illness for her! 

I finally seem to be feeling better, although weak. I'm hoping my appetite will return tomorrow and I'll be able to got to the immigration office with my boys and Maria Teresa, as planned. 

I also spoke with my mom tonight and she filled me in on my grandparents. My grandpa is back in the hospital, the result of a mini-stroke this morning. I ask for your continued thoughts and prayers. As joyful as this experience is and as much as I am grateful for the time to bond with Eli, it is difficult to be so far from home and family. Thank goodness for technology! We are talking, skyping, and emailing our loved ones daily, along with so many friends...It keeps us feeling connected to our world. 

Eli just woke up and had a bottle a little early today. I think our trip yesterday messed with his schedule. That, coupled with the teething discomfort, made for a fussy day. Jamie was so good with him; he is so patient and loving as a father. But, we all need a good night's sleep. Tomorrow is a new day. I hope to embrace it feeling healthy, again, and full of life.